At the heart of oil-rich Saudi Arabia sits Riyadh, the capital city and ancient oasis town. These days, little remains of the old walled town; instead the eye is drawn to a striking array of modern edifices, such as the Kingdom Tower and the Al Faisaliyah Center, which rear up to form an impressive skyline. In Riyadh, as with the rest of Saudi Arabia, visitors are expected to observe the country’s strict rules and traditions. For example, eating in public during Ramadan is forbidden; alcohol is prohibited, as is celebrating any kind of western festival (Valentine’s day, Christmas); and, when in public, all women must wear the abaya (the traditional loose, black robe worn by Muslim women). Western women need not despair; Riyadh’s wide range of abaya boutiques stock anything from understated to stylish and even glitzy abayas, making the wearing an enjoyable experience. Women are also allowed to move freely throughout the city without their husbands, provided they wear the abaya. The movement of visitors to Riyadh is tightly controlled and expats are obliged to live in compounds. While this may sound restrictive, the compounds are generally luxurious, impeccable, self-contained communities, complete with sports facilities, swimming pools and minimarts. While far less expensive than neighboring Dubai, Riyadh is no less of a shopper’s paradise. The city is liberally sprinkled with glittering, world-class malls and souks where you can find anything from fresh fruit and produce to bejeweled daggers or handfuls of gold necklaces. If your budget doesn’t stretch as far as haute couture labels, take your pick of the region's sublime selection of fabrics and have your garments tailor-made.